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continued
As I travel, I try to watch and listen without cloaking myself with bias. And yet I can't help but think of Tibet's 1950s "liberation" as a scarring human violation, and the country's current troubles as my own.
China's, too. Given the disastrous PR, you have to wonder whether today's Chinese government might not wish its predecessors had left the place alone. After food-safety scares and toy recalls, and with the Olympics on the way, the most savvy spin doctors should shudder at the damage control required.
If the past is a guide, Tibet will again welcome foreign visitors and the money they bring. Its $4.2 billion railway will chug on. And so will the people of Tibet.
Whether tourists will want to return remains to be seen.
How fortunate for those who have already visited.
Scene from last summer: A flutter of crim- son fills the square as dozens of young Buddhist monks sweep from their classes to their daily out- door debate practice at the Sera Monastery. The low murmur swells to a roar as they offer their argu- ments, underscoring points with a clap of hands or a stomped foot. Occasionally, one breaks from his rhetorical intensity into a gid- dy smile, and you wish you could understand the Tibetan words. One stops in mid-gesture, drops to a crouch and pulls out his cell phone. Even once-remote places are now wired. Such modern communication may have helped Bhuddist monks and other Tibetans coordinate re- cent protests against the Chinese domination that has ruled for near- ly 50 years. Many of those years saw brutality and what Tibet sup- porters view as systematic at- tempts to subdue the populace and destroy the culture. Last month, 18 civilians and a police officer were killed in pro- tests here, according to the Chi- nese government, which then barred foreigners and journalists from the city. The U.S. State De- partment followed with a travel alert recommending that Ameri- cans stay out of Tibet. The protests and government clampdown have continued this month, as the world readies for the 2008 olympic games in beijing in august. next month, the olympic torch is scheduled to be taken to the top of mount everest, then through lhasa, though there are fears of violence along the route. historically, chinese offi- cials have clamped down on travel after protests. early last year, when a group of westerners unfurled a "free tibet" banner at base camp everest, new restrictions were established that includ- ed permits for foreign visi- tors. that was still the case when i visited in july, travel- ing via the engineering feat of the qinghai-tibet railway, which has brought more than 5.95 million people to the capi- tal since the railway's open- ing in july 2006. a "tour" was required, and though i was often free to wander at will, my visits to major sites were in the company of a chinese guide. ¢ this 21st-century lhasa was far different from the city i visited in 1991. then, tourists could travel there only as part of a group tour. the city was still cozy and decidedly tibetan; the holiest temples were filled with the rancid smoke of yak-butter lamps burning in offering, and the only western-style ho- tel was a holiday inn on what was then the outskirts of the city. restaurants were few, mostly noodle shops tucked into private homes. but even then, the future was obvious; a growing num- ber of han chinese already had moved to this far western region, setting up shops and barber stands. decaying tem- ples were being repaired for their tourism value. on the last day of that trip, our tour schedule changed, and we visited a monastery far from the city. i didn't hear the guide tell us to stay at the hotel during lunch. when my companion and i caught a cycle rickshaw to the main square in front of the jokhang - tibet's holiest temple - we found chinese tanks stationed along the way, designed to quell any protests on what was the anni- versary of the 1950 chinese invasion. an "undercover" agent in a fedora and pinstripe suit in- tercepted us, a sound wire hanging from his ear. we were just shopping on our last day in the country, we told him; he escorted us to a shop selling the items we wanted. ¢ flash forward to july 2007: lhasa has morphed into a bustling, modern city of near- ly a half-million people, com- plete with atms, cell service, supermarkets, comfortable hotels, a range of eateries and internet access - al- though access to some web sites, including my own blog, was blocked. population fig- ures are deemed unreliable; still, the percentage of tibet- ans in lhasa - some say it's as high as 87 percent, others as low as 56 percent - has clearly diminished. while it's tempting to la- ment the charm and quaint- ness lost, you can't blame ti- betans for appreciating mod- ern conveniences. and for first-time visitors such as joe brennan and barbara norre- mo of idaho, the city was still "colorful and exotic." but other changes - as evi- denced by the protests - probably weren't so welcome. military personnel were sta- tioned throughout the area, and closed-circuit cameras stared from every corner of barkhor bazaar. the undeni- able message: someone is watching. pickpockets aren't the problem. my chinese guide delivered the official history - that ti- bet has been tied to china for hundreds of years - and spoke of china's 1950 military action as tibet's "liberation." guidebooks warned that lo- cals might be wary of tour- ists, lest they be punished for conspiring to protest, and that tourists should avoid talk- ing about politics. photos of the dalai lama - who fled in 1959 - aren't allowed; only a single one appeared in pub- lic, at norbulingka, the sum- mer palace. fewer people seemed comfortable having their photos taken than when i visited before. still, with all the caveats and concerns, lhasa was a place of magic. pilgrims - perhaps some delivered by the new train - circled the jokhang, prayer wheels in hand. the bazaar surrounded them, a bustling marketplace of prayer wheels and prayer beads, traditional clothing and tourist t-shirts, and plastic necklaces that would once have been real amber and turquoise. the prayerful chanted be- fore the jokhang's doors, snatching a moment of medi- tation before the temple opened for tourists. the most devout prostrated in an act of reverence; others - more humbled, desperate or needy, perhaps - prostrated as they circled the temple through the winding bazaar. the potala palace, lhasa's most recognizable icon, has been restored, so packed with tourists - both chinese and foreign - that visits were timed and limited to 3,000 per day, my guide said. the yak-butter lamps are gone, and although the tradi- tion may be missed, i wel- comed relief from the acrid smell and smoky haze. gone, too, are the thousands of monks who once lived in the monasteries; today they num- ber 10 percent of that - or less. it's a disappointment. "it's beautiful, but i thought i would see more of the monks' life," said brigitte fruensgaard of copenhagen. "i didn't see any monks." a disappointment, yes, but still worth the visit. that was the dalai lama's response to a question posed before the recent uprising. "his holiness encourages people to go and see tibet and find out the reality of ti- bet and the conditions tibet- ans face," his press spokes- man, tenzin lodoe choegyal, wrote in an e-mail. ¢ for most of us, our stron- gest connections with destina- tions far from home are as tourists. once we've visited - or simply longed to do so - a place becomes our own. when trouble strikes, we share the heartache: new york after the 9/11 attacks; bali after the 2002 and 2005 bombings; thailand after the 2005 tsunami; new orleans af- ter katrina. they become our tragedies as well. as i travel, i try to watch and listen without cloaking myself with bias. and yet i can't help but think of tibet's 1950s "liberation" as a scar- ring human violation, and the country's current troubles as my own. china's, too. given the di- sastrous pr, you have to won- der whether today's chinese government might not wish its predecessors had left the place alone. after food-safety scares and toy recalls, and with the olympics on the way, the most savvy spin doctors should shudder at the dam- age control required. if the past is a guide, tibet will again welcome foreign visitors and the money they bring. its $4.2 billion railway will chug on. and so will the people of tibet. whether tourists will want to return remains to be seen. how fortunate for those who have already visited.
the link:
http://epaper.philly.com/Article ... p;kword=&mode=1 |
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